Honestly it could also be a loose hub cap/lug cover. It'll click a lot louder when you hit a bump just right. I've got one on my dodge like that. I keep expecting it to fly off and kill a buss load on nuns.
High Mileage Trucks
- Thread starter bowhunter1023
- Start date
Check hubs first. Easiest thing to eliminate. Then check all u joints. Even though it sounds like it is up front check the rear. Noises bounce all over the place and can fool you. I would also check the rotors and brake pads. Could have something caught in the caliper.
I would lean toward a bad hub as well. But if it is indeed a hub, the noise will usually change, at least slightly, while you're making a turn. If the noise doesn't change while you turn, I'd be looking for something else.
Also could be as simple as needing brakes...
Your dude with mechanical knowledge will have it narrowed pretty quick.
Your dude with mechanical knowledge will have it narrowed pretty quick.
You guys keep saying hub as in hub bearing? Don't rule out the hub for 4x4. Does this have manual lockouts or automatic? If it is manual, it could be as simple as the lock out hub is not rotated all the way to the locked out position too.
I would not rule out one of the axle u joints or as Beener mentioned, it could be an indicator on your brake pad. Like Ben said, it could even be a stone in the tread or (hope not) a nail/screw in your tire already.
I would not rule out one of the axle u joints or as Beener mentioned, it could be an indicator on your brake pad. Like Ben said, it could even be a stone in the tread or (hope not) a nail/screw in your tire already.
It was a front drive shaft u-joint. Front one was missing bearings in two of the hubs. We replaced both. While we were under there, we noticed the rear axle was leaking grease. Checked it and it was all but dry. By now, I'm pissed and I let it be known...
Truck is now at Hocking Valley Mechanics getting all new plugs, coil packs, seals in the rear end, transmission flush/filter change, and a fuel pump. The fuel issue was not the two modules I replaced, but a fuel pump. Thankfully the dealer is paying half of all this. That said, instead of getting a truck for $1K less than everything else in that mileage/age range, I'm $200 ahead of market value.
Lesson learned. Next time I buy a vehicle, I won't be in such a hurry.
Truck is now at Hocking Valley Mechanics getting all new plugs, coil packs, seals in the rear end, transmission flush/filter change, and a fuel pump. The fuel issue was not the two modules I replaced, but a fuel pump. Thankfully the dealer is paying half of all this. That said, instead of getting a truck for $1K less than everything else in that mileage/age range, I'm $200 ahead of market value.
Lesson learned. Next time I buy a vehicle, I won't be in such a hurry.
Big_Holla
Senior Member
The stuff you are replacing now will surely last a long time Jesse. Glad they are forking over a few $$ to offset the cost. You could be doing the same thing with one that you would have spent $1000 more for too.
I'll say this. I've had a company ride for the last decade. There's nothing like a free vehicle. However it's also nice to have my own ride. Hard to explain, but it's liberating. No worrying about where I go, who I take, what I take, etc. It's my truck and I can do with it as I please.
So after I get it fixed, it'll be nice to have some peace of mind.
So after I get it fixed, it'll be nice to have some peace of mind.
Buckmaster
Senior Member
Big_Holla
Senior Member
136K
I'd expect this round of work to last me a while as you said. I'm sure something else will come up, but for the time being, I'm hopeful things will be good for a while.
I'd expect this round of work to last me a while as you said. I'm sure something else will come up, but for the time being, I'm hopeful things will be good for a while.
I'm with Chuck. Those are simply maintenance items. Addressing them now when it isn't 100% critical to be without the truck a day or two is going to save you future headaches. Surprised all the coil packs needed to be replaced. Generally you'll have one go out here or there. Frustrating when it happens but still way ahead of a new truck payment.
It was only one pack. However I bought the parts planning to do it myself. I figured since I'd be pulling the packs, I'd just replace them while I was in there. For the money, figured it was worth any future frustration. I got a steal on the packs, so that helped too.
Looks like you are god t go now. I'm looking at Toyota Tacoma 2W with 80K. It's my son's FIL who passed away. Hope my Spyroco knife is still in there.
That's a lot of money just too get a knife back Frank lmao.... I don't think you'll go wrong with the Tacoma.... Hell even Brian likes them....
The fun part is coming in the mail soon: decals! Love me some decals and I just ordered some. Also got a set of nerf bars on the way. I thought I'd be alright without them, but they will be handy. Makes it nice for getting the kid in and out of the car seat. I have a broken vent visor to fix and CD player to install, then I'm done with the cosmetics. I'll post some pics when it' all done.
Truck won't be done until Monday, so that's a bummer. They broke 5 of the 8 sparks plugs, so I'm glad I didn't do it now. They've done a bunch of plug jobs, so they should have the routine down.
He also said someone bypassed the fuel pump driver module. They cut it out of the circuit and grounded the fuel pump so it would run all the time. That's a head scratcher. It took more time to do that than replace the module. He said they got it wired in right and it's functioning properly now.
It's one thing after another...
He also said someone bypassed the fuel pump driver module. They cut it out of the circuit and grounded the fuel pump so it would run all the time. That's a head scratcher. It took more time to do that than replace the module. He said they got it wired in right and it's functioning properly now.
It's one thing after another...
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Jesse. When I bought my Caddy it had 75k miles on it. I told the dealership (ford) that I was taking it to the caddy dealer down the road and had their 100 point inspection done on it. Full engine diagnostic, joints, tranny, rear end, even had them bore scope it. Came back with about 2.5k dealer cost to get everything up to snuff. Nothing major plugs, fluids, shift link bushing, alignment (fully adjustable sport suspension that requires special tools) etc. I negotiated half on what I could do, and full price on what a dealer had to do, it was also missing both key fobs (125 each) and the molded trunk piece. ( called junkyard for it). Ended up getting them to knock 2k off it. 4 days later the starter went out, 6 months later the left hub, both back hubs need replaced now (127k miles). Bottom line. If you buy American you better buy a set of wrenches to go with it. Best thing you can do is get a chilton manual and bust your own knuckles. If not the UAW repair costs (80-120 an hour) will put you in the poor house
I have a manual and a $50/HR mechanic for the stuff I can't do with the help of my buddy. Somethings I'm just not comfortable doing, or even equipped to do. These guys are doing 3 things I'm glad I didn't have to do.