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Limb Driver rest modification (pics)

jagermeister

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Ohio
Milo and I had been discussing the Limb Driver cord attachment over the past couple weeks, and what has resulted on my Strother Infinity is a sweet little limb-driven setup.

The standard way to attach the activation cord to the Limb Driver arm is to run the cord through the hole in the arm. The cord is then secured by tightening a set screw, which is located on the tip of the arm. Milo and I both agreed that we didn't like this much, because over time (through tweaks, tuning, and general use) that set screw wears on the activation cord, causing it to fray, which could eventually result in cord failure... Obviously, cord failure is bad. Pretty simple solution for this. Skeeter Creek Outdoors sent me a care package containing some various stainless hex cap screws, one being a 3/8" 8-32 that just happened to fit that activation arm perfectly. I test fit it first and found that, once tightened down completely, left the perfect little gap between the arm and screw head to accomodate a loop. I took the screw back out, shrunk a tiny chunk of heat-shrink to the exposed threads, coated the threads with some loctite blue, and tightened it back in to the arm.

Here is the result, with the activation cord hooked up...



The beauty of this mod is it's simplicity, especially considering the benefits that it provides. Not only does it eliminate activation cord wear, but it also makes it MUCH easier to detach the cord prior to any tuning of the rest. See, when the cord is attached, the rest's launcher arm is pulled down tight to the bow shelf... So, in order to adjust centershot and rest height, you have to detach the cord, thus allowing the launcher arm to come up. By using the stock pull-through and set screw setup, IMO it's a royal pain in the ass attaching and detaching that cord... not to mention, the more times you tighten and loosen that little set screw, the more likely you are to strip out the head. With the loop modification, it's quick and easy to attach and detach the cord from the arm.

Cord attached and launcher pulled down tight...



Easily detach the loop from behind the screw head...



Launcher arm pops up, ready for any tuning adjustments...




Now, the other modification I made was a change to the mode of operation... slightly. Normally most people run the activation cord to the top limb, since this is how the Limb Driver is designed to function from the factory. In this configuration, when you draw the bow and the activation cord goes slack, it has a tendency to fall toward your sight window or your bow sight or your quiver attachment... Plus, the cord can even sometimes "twang" against the cable slide rod when the arrow is released. To remedy this, I modified my new Limb Driver a bit to activate off the bottom limb instead of the top.

In this next picture, I drew the activation arm in yellow the position that it's in from the factory. The thicker yellow line would be the cord, running up toward the top limb. In order for the rest to function properly off the bottom limb, the activation arm needs to be flipped around. This is pretty easy to do... There's a set screw that tightens the activation arm to the shaft... Simply loosen this set screw, pull the activation arm off, flip it around, and put it back together. The pieces have a couple bushings in between them, so it's important to squeeze things back together tight while re-tightening that set screw. If you don't, the launcher arm will have a little "slop" or play in it.



You'll also notice that I put a small piece of heat-shrink tubing on the steel stopper peg. When the launcher pops up at full draw, this peg is what stops the activation arm. From the factory, it's not loud by any means... it just makes a faint click sound... but the extra heat-shrink took care of that.



Here you see how I attached the cord to the bottom limb. I stuck a spare shelf-mounted arrow holder to the underside of the limb to eliminate any movement, and tied a simple d-loop style knot around it.





The next picture shows the position of the activation cord running from the rest down to the bottom limb. It works out great because it's off to the side, out of the way of your grip... And best of all, at full draw you don't have to worry about the slack cord falling into your sight window.




For any of you guys considering a new arrow rest, I would STRONGLY suggest picking up one of these Vapor Trail Limb Drivers from Milo at Skeeter Creek Outdoors. This is my second one and I've been more than happy with them both. By activating off the limb instead of the buss cable, there's absolutely no effect on cam timing. The launcher arm is made out of spring steel, so it's much more forgiving than a lot of other dropaway rests. And if containment of the arrow is a concern for you, Vapor Trail has you covered there, too... with the Limb Driver Pro V.
 

jagermeister

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Ohio
I like it a lot. Only negative is that is the only thing you hear on my bow...the rest. Might try a different cord?

BTW Good work.

Is the cord the only part of the rest making the noise? Is it slapping against the cable slide rod or something? If it is, you might try placing a thin strip of adhesive velcro (the fluffy side) on the cable slide rod where the activation cord crosses it. Also, I had some luck tying a really small cat whisker ball on my activation cord... Takes some of the buzz out of it.
 
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Beentown

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Sunbury, OH
I am not TOO worried about it right now. When time for getting in a stand is around then I will mess with it. Probably going to have Proline make me a cord the same color as my strings before season. Then I till put a string leech or something in it.