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Broadhead blade length vs. width?

Jackalope

Dignitary Member
Staff member
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That is for sharing. Nice. :)

You mention when using 1:1 ratio heads the slick trick is good but you prefer a smaller head like the wasp boss bullet. The wasp is a 1 inch diameter, three blade, with aluminum ferrule and steel tip. Wouldn't the 4 blade, all steel, 1 1/8 diameter slick trick still hold the advantage considering the additional blade, 1/8 in larger slice, and steel construction? They look like twins except for the lack of one blade.
 

Tiny

Junior Member
207
0
That is for sharing. Nice. :)

You mention when using 1:1 ratio heads the slick trick is good but you prefer a smaller head like the wasp boss bullet. The wasp is a 1 inch diameter, three blade, with aluminum ferrule and steel tip. Wouldn't the 4 blade, all steel, 1 1/8 diameter slick trick still hold the advantage considering the additional blade, 1/8 in larger slice, and steel construction? They look like twins except for the lack of one blade.

I worked with Gary (inventor of the S.T.) during testing of the original head which was a sweet piece of engineering after the ferrule issues (in the beginning) were dealt with. We had a falling out due to he fact that once the blades were changed, his heads failed testing. Those German blades are not in the same quality class as the originals.
Be that as it may be....My opinion on the S.T. has nothing to do with anything other than the comparison between the two heads.

The Boss has a lesser cut area, better blade integrity and the ferrule has never given out in testing, even when subjected to over 100# Kinetic Energy on hard impact. The original S.T. is a 1" cutting diameter, as is the Boss. The Trocar tip of the Boss is a better design as compaired to the chisel tip although both are good designs. The trocar has a dished area between each angle which cuts drag due to having a significant reduction to surface area as compaired to a chisel tip. That said.. the S.T. has a very minimal chisel tip area and in the end (IMO) it is as good as the Boss in terms of drag... maybe even better but the trocar design is a better bone splitter than the chisel which is why I prefer it by comparison.

I personally prefer a 4 blades head but one that carries break away blades such as the original Magnus stinger was made. My first and foremost concern is the penetration of bone and blades that pass through bone in tip top condition. I would rather have less area on the head or breakaway blades should a particular hard bone be encountered. The deer just seem too jumpy anymore and once in awhile that scapula just gets lower than I would like before the arrow arrives. I guess I could just aim back more but I like keeping it closer to the pump station most times.
 
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Jackalope

Dignitary Member
Staff member
38,841
260
I worked with Gary (inventor of the S.T.) during testing of the original head which was a sweet piece of engineering after the ferrule issues (in the beginning) were dealt with. We had a falling out due to he fact that once the blades were changed, his heads failed testing. Those German blades are not in the same quality class as the originals.
Be that as it may be....My opinion on the S.T. has nothing to do with anything other than the comparison between the two heads.

The Boss has a lesser cut area, better blade integrity and the ferrule has never given out in testing, even when subjected to over 100# Kinetic Energy on hard impact. The original S.T. is a 1" cutting diameter, as is the Boss. The Trocar tip of the Boss is a better design as compaired to the chisel tip although both are good designs. The trocar has a dished area between each angle which cuts drag due to having a significant reduction to surface area as compaired to a chisel tip. That said.. the S.T. has a very minimal chisel tip area and in the end (IMO) it is as good as the Boss in terms of drag... maybe even better but the trocar design is a better bone splitter than the chisel which is why I prefer it by comparison.

I personally prefer a 4 blades head but one that carries break away blades such as the original Magnus stinger was made. My first and foremost concern is the penetration of bone and blades that pass through bone in tip top condition. I would rather have less area on the head or breakaway blades should a particular hard bone be encountered. The deer just seem too jumpy anymore and once in awhile that scapula just gets lower than I would like before the arrow arrives. I guess I could just aim back more but I like keeping it closer to the pump station most times.

Interesting. I have been told about people having blade failure issues. I bought 3 packs of tricks about 6 years ago and have shot them since. They've gone through plenty of deer and some of them some very rough shots. Two seasons ago I shot a big buck in the pocket of the guts. The ST passed through the guts exiting completely dead center of the rear hindquarters. I went on to shoot two more deer with it this season. Same head. I don't think I have ever broken a blade. And I've shot them through some bad situations. I've mangled a few though but that's to be expected. I'm the kind of person who doesn't want to worry about bones etc. if I have a shot at vitals I expect the BH to perform regardless of what it has to go through after impact to reach vitals.

When did the blade material change? I'm pretty sure the ones I have are the German lutz blades. But like I said. I've had them 5-6 years.
 

Tiny

Junior Member
207
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Interesting. I have been told about people having blade failure issues. I bought 3 packs of tricks about 6 years ago and have shot them since. They've gone through plenty of deer and some of them some very rough shots. Two seasons ago I shot a big buck in the pocket of the guts. The ST passed through the guts exiting completely dead center of the rear hindquarters. I went on to shoot two more deer with it this season. Same head. I don't think I have ever broken a blade. And I've shot them through some bad situations. I've mangled a few though but that's to be expected. I'm the kind of person who doesn't want to worry about bones etc. if I have a shot at vitals I expect the BH to perform regardless of what it has to go through after impact to reach vitals.

When did the blade material change? I'm pretty sure the ones I have are the German lutz blades. But like I said. I've had them 5-6 years.

I believe the change was in 2007 but I would have to go back and look at the testing. I am very sure it was 2007 but by what you are saying I would believe that you got a package of the originals. The German blades just were not that great but would certainly do the job in most situations. If you put it through the lungs it's dead...simple as that. As I say, I look for the worst case scenario heads that will save the day as was the case with the buck I mentioned earlier.
I am not pooping on the S.T. because it is a great design... Just not the one I personally would choose given the changes and my requirements.
 

Tiny

Junior Member
207
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I ain't signing up for some other forum, dude. Post a screen shot of the chart or re-paste the post.

Here is one I grabbed for you :)

ST.jpg
 

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Jackalope

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Oh we'll heck I've done that to blades. Lol. I thought you meant they blew apart. When shooting through bone I expect some blade damage. By bones I mean tough stuff spine, leg, ball joint etc. Not ribs.

This deer was shot through the thin part of the shoulder blade and hit the leg bone on the opposite side just below the knuckle shattering it in three pieces and exiting completely.

The blades were ruffled but the head remained intact. That's what I look for. On entry it may get mangled a little, but I expect it to hold together, reach vitals, and provide an exit wound. The only bone I worry about an exit is a straight down spine shot. But let's face it. With those you really don't need a blood trail. Lol. The reason I like the tricks is they have bone busting power with the ability to stay intact and drive that head home. And on your everyday chip shot double lung it really opens up a hole in them.



 

Tiny

Junior Member
207
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Gotcha'

I don't want anything wrong with it on the exit side... so that I know it cut everything between entry and exit ;) I have a spitfire head that went through a 500# hogs shoulder and broke the offside leg like the picture above and there was not a scratch on the blades or ferrule. Considering that it was propelled with a crossbow making over 140# K.E. (Ghost 400) I think it speaks volumes to the integrity. Generally I found 10% of any number of broadheads out there were capable of passing through bone and retaining at least 66% (or better) of their cutting edge. Not as many perfect heads out there as one might imagine.

Like we both said, if it goes right through the lungs/heart it isnt an issue. It's only an issue when it does not. :)

You talk about heads blowing apart. I have tested plenty that just blew the blades off head after head. The original Rage was great for that!. ;)
 
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joejoe8

Junior Member
387
61
Being from a state that has no limit on doe kills. I've shot a bunch over the years, an tried a few different heads. Slick Trick mag. has been by far the best all around head.