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Calling all construction minded fellows....

buckstar25

Junior Member
691
81
T-county
A little background, our house was built in the 1920's. It is 2,200 sq ft, as is the case with most homes in the area clay block was used instead of wood to "frame" the house. The only wood studded walls I have are the interior walls, the outside walls are basically double thick, clay tile faced with brick and the plaster was put directly on the clay tile. Zero insulation, and we can't have it blown in either because the grids inside the structural tile don't line up.

Horsehair plaster throughout the house. Original windows except for the kitchen.
1.5" tongue and groove solid oak hardwood floors that are covered by carpet now.

We have a relatively small (in terms of remodel) budget. My plan is still in the design phase, but I would like to put new 2x6 walls up on the exterior walls, this gives me the ability to run all new electric, plumbing, phone, cable, etc. the drawback is deep window frames but I think I can deal with that. Forgot to mention the house has old knob an tube wiring also, with a few spliced in Romex runs.....yikes!! Would like to put 200 amp service in while doing this.

I will fill in the blanks when needed throughout this thread but would like to hear some thoughts on this project. I can do the work but am not very thourough, I get scatter brained and all excited which tends to leave the problems for after the project has started!!
 
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jagermeister

Dignitary Member
Supporting Member
18,060
223
Ohio
Sounds like you're in an ambitious mood! lol I think the windows are going to look a bit funky if you use 2x6's around the exterior. I don't know... Seems like they'd be too deep. Why not just use 2x4's instead of the 2x6's?

And btw it's blasphemy to have that hardwood floor covered in carpet. Rip the old carpet out, rent a big sander and go to town on the hardwood, then refinish it... It'll look amazing.
 

buckstar25

Junior Member
691
81
T-county
And btw it's blasphemy to have that hardwood floor covered in carpet. Rip the old carpet out, rent a big sander and go to town on the hardwood, then refinish it... It'll look amazing.

Tell my wife that!! I keep telling her that but she would rather go spend money on laminate!
 

dante322

*Supporting Member*
5,506
157
Crawford county
Personally, I've always liked the "solid" look of a brick homem I would build out the interior walls myself and keep the brick exterior.

Ditto on the hardwood floors. Do one room and once she sees how nice it looks she will want them all done.
 

dante322

*Supporting Member*
5,506
157
Crawford county
Sorry had a brain fart. Missunderstood what you were saying about interior vs. Exterior walls. 2x4s will be plenty of room for insulation and new wiring / plumbing.
 

jeremy44230

Senior Member
2,370
76
Medina County
The 2x4's are standard for most walls, 2x6's are used sometimes for plumbing or for walls with numerous windows for the added strength. You will get a higher R value with 2x6 walls, R19 or so, if memory serves me correctly... 2x4 walls provide R13. You can order doors and windows for 2x6 walls if you don't want to make extension jambs on your own.
 

Hoytmania

Dignitary Member
Supporting Member
11,518
167
Gods Country
2 x 4 walls is plenty for insulation as the others has said, it will also allow for any plumbing or electrical that is needed. It will also be cheaper as you wont be buying large lumber. Now for some of my questions.

1. Is your house a slab house or do you have a basement?
2. What kind of heating system do you have?
3. Are you going to be redoing any of the ceilings and adding more insulation to the attic?

Just answering these three questions will open the platform to a multitude of other questions but should help to start to point you in the right direction. The thing you want to remember the most is that the two least flexable systems in the house are usually the the two thought about the least, and the is the plumbing and the heating. Sewer line can only run in certain directions and still drain properly. Duct work can only go into certain places before it starts loosing its effectiveness. Electrical, shoot you can run a romex wire up, down, and side to side with no issues or complications. Try doing that with a sewer line and see how well that poo drains out.
 

jeremy44230

Senior Member
2,370
76
Medina County
I am in the process of cleaning up my great grandmas house, it has oak floors below all the carpet. Here is a pic, when I get it all up, I'll show before and after pics...

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1342136124.713059.jpg

They are in good shape from what I have seen.
 

Ohiosam

*Supporting Member*
11,708
191
Mahoning Co.
My house was built before the Civil War 3 layers of brick with the plaster spread on the brick, 10 ft ceilings and almost 3000 sq ft so I know a little about living in a house like you are describing. Sounds like a ton of work and and expense and if you're not careful the house might not like "right" when you are done. Your might have issues with eaves and downspouts. I wouldn't run plumbing up an exterior wall. I've had good luck gouging out a line of plaster and brick and putting the wires in the groove and plastering over it or running wires behind the wainscoting. Have used wire mold a few places too with good results . Plus you probably could buy a bunch of oil/gas for the $$ you'll spend framing it and siding it.

I would replace the windows, possibly doors or add storm doors. Insulate the attic and under the floor if you can get at it from the cellar. Carpeting is warmer then wood floors. And you would be surprised what all I do on a 100 amp service.
 
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buckstar25

Junior Member
691
81
T-county
Haha, thanks guys!

Sam, I am wanting to stud the inside walls. Not outside, I may have confused a few people. Since I have no insulation on the walls I plan on framing the interior of the house. The outside is fine, we are tryin to make the house more energy efficient!

I think the drains for upstairs bathroom might be a little tricky.

House has brand new furnace and central air.

I am certain I will he using that wire casing for some of the ceiling lights. Thought about what Sam did and just cut out what I need to run the wire and patch it??
 

buckstar25

Junior Member
691
81
T-county
Hoyt, my dad had his own heating and cooling business and has been in the industry for 25 years. He suggested zoning the house with an attic unit or with some high tech thermostat??

By doing the 2x4 walls I will be able to run the duct correctly and have returns in the upstairs, right now I have no returns for the upstairs. All the registers are ran off a single trunk and I get uneven flow to some of the rooms. Wall stacks will be very nice to have!!
 

Ohiosam

*Supporting Member*
11,708
191
Mahoning Co.
Inside is a little better but will you be losing original woodwork? I still wouldn't run water in an exterior wall. Since it's 90 years old it probably has real 2x4s, 4" is plenty of room for wires and pipes, even rectangular furnace ducts.

My walls are 14" thick, here's how the window are done to keep it from being like a box around the windows. I had a friend that has a similar house but the windows aren't curved, it make a big difference how much light comes in.


And example of an electrical box inletted into the brick and plastered in place.
 

hickslawns

Dignitary Member
Supporting Member
39,721
248
Ohio
Frame the inside. That makes more sense. I was scratching my head.

Hardwood floors. Depends on what kind of tongue and groove they are. We have tongue and groove rough cut oak floors. Refinishing would not really look right. If they are the narrower style (think basketball court) rather than the 4-5" wide tongue and groove, then I think I would refinish for sure.

Thoughts on insulation? Ever consider the spray in insulation? I believe the R value is higher and you can spray it right around the plumbing and electrical. Higher R value in the 2x4 walls would be a plus and it also makes for a very tight house. Downside being the cost.

Glad to hear you have already considered the heating/cooling situation. Obviously, Hoytmania is much better suited to answer these questions, but I have a decent base of knowledge. Spent a couple years working a supply house, just paid property taxes on 4 properties, and grew up around an uncle in the business. I DO know the returns are critical, yet often overlooked. Last thing you want is a new unit in the house and to not have it perform to its potential. Money wasted there. Pretty much only going to put out what you put into it.

Sounds ambitious. Good luck with your project.
 

Hoytmania

Dignitary Member
Supporting Member
11,518
167
Gods Country
Hoyt, my dad had his own heating and cooling business and has been in the industry for 25 years. He suggested zoning the house with an attic unit or with some high tech thermostat??

By doing the 2x4 walls I will be able to run the duct correctly and have returns in the upstairs, right now I have no returns for the upstairs. All the registers are ran off a single trunk and I get uneven flow to some of the rooms. Wall stacks will be very nice to have!!

If your dad doesn't already know about it check into Arzel zoning systems for the zoning it may help you from needing a whole nother unit in the attic. We have been working with Arzel for over 20 years and it is IMO the best zoning system in the world, and another great thing about it is that it is made in Cleveland so everything is close to home. I don't want to step on your dads toes but if either of you would have any questions about it I would be more than happy to share my experiences with it.