Welcome to TheOhioOutdoors
Wanting to join the rest of our members? Login or sign up today!
Login / Join

Arrow flight question

bthompson1004

Member
1,238
100
NWOhio!
So I've been shooting and practicing all summer long with my PSE Deerhunter, set at 29" and 70#...shot easton XX75 camo hunters in .400spine with 2" quickfletch twister vanes an 100gr pionts and practice broadheads...got it dialed in pretty good...

Finally made the jump to the 21st century, and found a sweet deal on easton flatlines and couldn't pass them up...I got them in .340spine and cut at 29"...I installed 125 grain field points, 2" quickfletch twister vanes and put the lumenoks on them...shot the arrows with field pionts and looked real good...I was getting a little more speed, flatter trajectory and hitting my marks...

Then I shoot the practice fixed broadhead (Muzzy 125gr. 3 blade)...I am working at 15yds from the target to see how the arrrows are flying...the first shot I took, I noticed the arrow goes about 10yds and then does a complete nose dive...ends up hitting under my mark by about 1ft or so...All shots were taken at the same 15yd spot using the same pin...I couldn't believe what I was seeing...and I have no idea what is wrong...even when I shot fixed broadheads with my aluminum arrows I never missed this bad...

I was just wondering if someone (anyone) had any thoughts on what the problem could be?
 

hickslawns

Dignitary Member
Supporting Member
39,772
248
Ohio
That is a big difference. Probably the wrong guy to answer here, so I will throw out what I know. Look at the simple things first. Sometimes we are looking for a major problem, but then realize it is something simple. Ex: Did you possibly not have the broad head screwed in tight or square? I know it is very simple, but sometimes it is the little things. Outside of this, you are going to have to wait for someone more knowledgeable. lol Good luck bud.
 

bthompson1004

Member
1,238
100
NWOhio!
I'd spin test the finished arrows and look for some wobble. It could be the broadhead is not seated squarely against the end of the shaft. You could also check your FOC...

http://www.stickemarchery.com/stickemcart/archery-calculators.aspx

It could be the 125 grain head as Lumenock combo have that out of whack. But I'd start with the broadhead and check the alignment with the shaft...

I hope to get some time in tonight...I like the website Jesse, thanks a bunch for sharing that...hopefully everything will check out there...After I saw this problem I decided to see if my 100gr. rage practice head would react the same way and it didn't...if flew true as the field points:smiley_confused_vra
 

RedCloud

Super Moderator
Super Mod
17,383
193
North Central Ohio
Think you have that backwards Red :smiley_chinrub: Isn't a smaller number a stiffer spine?

Beentown

My momma always told me I was special. lmao

I will leave it to the more edumacated fellers lol.

Weather it's over or under spined wouldn't it cause the arrow to jump around and not fly straight ? Too much flex or not enough flex ?

Was just something that came to mind.

Acoording to Easton the .340 is the right spine. I'm out of ideas lmao. Sorry for the side track.
 
Last edited:

bowhunter1023

Owner/Operator
Staff member
48,916
274
Appalachia
Yes, being underspined causes some major issues because the arrows continues to flex longer than a stiffer shaft, allowing more room for error. He's actually better off with the 340's...
 

RedCloud

Super Moderator
Super Mod
17,383
193
North Central Ohio
Yes, being underspined causes some major issues because the arrows continues to flex longer than a stiffer shaft, allowing more room for error. He's actually better off with the 340's...

Thanks for the info Jesse.

Guess I will just stick with my carbon bearings for now.
 

jagermeister

Dignitary Member
Supporting Member
18,082
223
Ohio
This just seems strange. One foot low is pretty dang dramatic for only shooting at 15 yds. Have you tried shooting the original 100 gr practice broadheads with the new flatlines? The heavier heads shouldn't make you shoot low since the flatlines are a lighter shaft, but I'm wondering if there's something wrong with those 125 gr heads. Have you paper-tuned your bow recently? If not, maybe give that a try... Maybe your nock point is off a bit. It just seems weird that you were grouping FPs and BHs together before the flatlines, and now there are problems. I would think if the bow was in tune before, there wouldn't be such a drastic change in flight simply by switching to the flatlines.
 

5Cent

Dignitary Member
Supporting Member
12,337
212
North Central Ohio
Are you shooting the MX-3 or the original Muzzy's? I have the same issue on 2 different bows. I tried both the MX-3 and MX-4 in 100 grain and all shot way low and right. Put the regular longer shafted original 3 blad muzzy and they are tack drivers. Redcloud, can you tune the bearings? I'd like more info, sounds pretty sweet.
 

RedCloud

Super Moderator
Super Mod
17,383
193
North Central Ohio
Are you shooting the MX-3 or the original Muzzy's? I have the same issue on 2 different bows. I tried both the MX-3 and MX-4 in 100 grain and all shot way low and right. Put the regular longer shafted original 3 blad muzzy and they are tack drivers. Redcloud, can you tune the bearings? I'd like more info, sounds pretty sweet.

Pretty easy stuff to do. They just slide right to the end just below the nock on one end and then after you load the arrow on you slide the other end on. As you pull back the front one self adjusts right behind the BH. You need to get an arrow that's about 1-1/2" longer then your normal DL to work right though. I put a quick pic in my sig line there.
 
bthompson1004,
If the arrow spine is too weak, you can regain some spine by lowering the tip weight (100gr. or 85gr.) Increased tip weight will cause the shaft to flex and decrease the spine. Simularly, if the tip weight is decreased the shaft won't flex as much, thus increasing the spine.
Also cutting the shaft length will increase the spine...if you can.

Since most modern compounds are shot against "the wall" (as far as it can be drawn), you only need about a 1/2" of shaft sticking over your rest. Depending on the style of fixed blade broadhead you choose, you may need more than the 1/2".

Things change when broadheads are installed and for a number of reasons. Now, there are 2 sets of "wings" on the shaft...the vanes and the broadhead blades. This has been one of many reasons why some bowhunters switched to mechanicals.

The difference in 3 or 4 blades will NOT change the POI, but the length of the broadhead will. Short ferruled broadheads work best in faster bows...like 270 f.p.s. or faster. If you've noticed the broadhead market, there are as many short ferruled broadheads, as there are mechanicals. Reason...improved flight charactoristics.

Page 11 of this Easton Tuning Guide may give you some pointers.
www.eastonarchery.com/pdf/tuning_guide.pdf

I see you're also in N.W. Ohio. I'm in Lima and if you're not too far, I would be glad to drop in and assist you with your set up. There's no replacement for having confidence in your bowhunting equipment.

Bowhunter57
 
Last edited:

Milo

Tatonka guide.
8,184
157
what you probably have is what we will call the difference in arrow shaft thickness. the flatlines are probably much skinnier than the aluminums you were shooting so level arrow travel on your rest is now an issue. you most likely have a high nocking point. i would change your rest height up fuzz like a 1/16 of an inch and reshoot.
 

bthompson1004

Member
1,238
100
NWOhio!
This just seems strange. One foot low is pretty dang dramatic for only shooting at 15 yds. Have you tried shooting the original 100 gr practice broadheads with the new flatlines? The heavier heads shouldn't make you shoot low since the flatlines are a lighter shaft, but I'm wondering if there's something wrong with those 125 gr heads. Have you paper-tuned your bow recently? If not, maybe give that a try... Maybe your nock point is off a bit. It just seems weird that you were grouping FPs and BHs together before the flatlines, and now there are problems. I would think if the bow was in tune before, there wouldn't be such a drastic change in flight simply by switching to the flatlines.

I agree...strange indeed...I was only grouping good at 15 and 20 yards though...at 25 and 30 I was on the target but not grouping like I was at 15 and 20 yards...so I prbly needed a little tuning then...But the flatlines fly true and hit the mark with the 125gr AND 100gr. field points...also with my 100gr. 3blade RAGE practice head...the only problem is when I shot the 3 blade Muzzy 125 gr. practice broadhead...at least thats what I saw...
 

bthompson1004

Member
1,238
100
NWOhio!
what you probably have is what we will call the difference in arrow shaft thickness. the flatlines are probably much skinnier than the aluminums you were shooting so level arrow travel on your rest is now an issue. you most likely have a high nocking point. i would change your rest height up fuzz like a 1/16 of an inch and reshoot.

This sounds like a good place to start...I'll let you know what happens.