at the risk of sounding like im not one of the guys here, lol. Explain "tuning" to me on a so-called FIXED broadhead LMAO!
What the heck is TUNING!
- Thread starter saddlepants
- Start date
Don't ever be afraid or embarrased to ask questions around here... Nobody will slam you for trying to learn something.
"Tuning" in general is involved in so many facets of archery it isn't even funny. We could go on all day long about the different types of tuning. Now for broadhead tuning, there are still quite a few things involved, but it's not bad.
First and foremost is the way the broadhead "seats" to the arrow's insert, or even how straight that insert is glued into the end of an arrow shaft. You'll get the best performance when that broadhead is lined up perfectly with the arrow shaft. If you spin a broadhead-tipped arrow shaft on a spin tester and the tip of the broadhead wobbles, even ever-so-slightly, it's not lined up to perfection. They make tools to correct that, and it's pretty easy to do. Secondly, even if your arrow insert is perfectly square, the ferrule of the broadhead needs to be square. These days, most broadheads pass this test more often than not, but in years past it was more of a problem. Another variable is weight consistancy between broadheads. Making sure your broadheads all weigh the same will help you get more consistent results.
Aside from these few things, the rest of the tuning would involve the bow, and even shooter form. Centershot of the bow, cam timing, nock travel, nock point, rest position, grip pressure and position... These are all things that can/will affect broadhead flight. A properly tuned bow can usually shoot any broadhead right with or relatively-close to your field points. As with many other things in this world, the sky is the limit for amount of attention you want to apply toward tuning. For some bowhunters, hitting a "pie plate" is good enough... for others, not even busting nocks is good enough. It's a matter of personal preference... or severity of OCD. lmao
"Tuning" in general is involved in so many facets of archery it isn't even funny. We could go on all day long about the different types of tuning. Now for broadhead tuning, there are still quite a few things involved, but it's not bad.
First and foremost is the way the broadhead "seats" to the arrow's insert, or even how straight that insert is glued into the end of an arrow shaft. You'll get the best performance when that broadhead is lined up perfectly with the arrow shaft. If you spin a broadhead-tipped arrow shaft on a spin tester and the tip of the broadhead wobbles, even ever-so-slightly, it's not lined up to perfection. They make tools to correct that, and it's pretty easy to do. Secondly, even if your arrow insert is perfectly square, the ferrule of the broadhead needs to be square. These days, most broadheads pass this test more often than not, but in years past it was more of a problem. Another variable is weight consistancy between broadheads. Making sure your broadheads all weigh the same will help you get more consistent results.
Aside from these few things, the rest of the tuning would involve the bow, and even shooter form. Centershot of the bow, cam timing, nock travel, nock point, rest position, grip pressure and position... These are all things that can/will affect broadhead flight. A properly tuned bow can usually shoot any broadhead right with or relatively-close to your field points. As with many other things in this world, the sky is the limit for amount of attention you want to apply toward tuning. For some bowhunters, hitting a "pie plate" is good enough... for others, not even busting nocks is good enough. It's a matter of personal preference... or severity of OCD. lmao
Ok, I get it..kinda like a pool cue rolled on the slate to see if its warped? As for my shooter form - ive been told its crap but when I try to do it any other way I blow the shot..besides form is nearly impossible given the different conditions of every shot you might place on a deer be it from a blind, seated, in a stand, branch in the way and you have to duck a little, uneven ground ect ect. So Im gonna keep shooting the way I shoot as long as they are in the center spot on my target which is about a 4 inch diameter spot i feel I can hit where I focus my shot on the deer no matter what angle hes at or I am. Aim for the heart - if you have to pass through the ass or the shoulder to get there! Hah, I use my poor little dog as an example when Im trying to explain this to my husband. Look at the dog, know where the heart is inside and focus on the outside point on him that will successfully place the arrow through the heart...and shoot.
Last edited:
You got it. The whole tuning thing is another aspect of gaining confidence in your equipment. Some get carried away with it (myself included), and some don't. Bottom line... If you can hit where you're aiming with a razor sharp broadhead-tipped arrow, that's all that really matters, right?
Thats my thought. I think its important to practice FROM different positions. I am limited in arrows due to such low poundage and was thinking about having arrows made?
dante322
*Supporting Member*
the key to good "form" is actually that you draw, anchor and release the same every shot. Even if your personal form is "crap" like you say, it works for you so stick with it. the important part is that you do it the same way every time.
Example; when I draw my bow it is pointed at a downward angle, so if im in a blind, in a tree whatever, I draw the same way. my anchor points are the kisser in the corner of my mouth, the first knuckle of my right hand is in my ear and I touch the tip of my nose to the string. I do this every time to ensure that my line of site through the peep to my pins is the same every time. After I have drawn, and anchored then I can adjust to what ever angle I need to shoot. Always keep the anchor points the same. If you are shooting down at a steep angle from a tree, bend at the waist, keep your upper body in the same position so you dont lose the anchor points. The same can be applied if you are sitting, kneeling or trying to adjust to miss a limb.
Don't worry. My kids have used the dog as a training aid more than once to show Mommy where to shoot the deer. Poor boxer is about the size of a fawn and just too handy and available if the conversation comes up. Even has white on his belly, feet, and a throat patch. Need to remember to put orange on Brutus during gun season. ahhaha
I always make sure my arrows/broadheads are straight..... Spinning them in the palm of my hand too tell if there is any wabble too them, if they pass that test then I make sure the blades line up with the vains/fletchings..... Makes a differance in my book..... No matter what you shoot that is the one constant.....