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Newer broadhead ( to me at least) Helix

Milo

Tatonka guide.
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157
http://www.helixarrowheads.com/why.aspx

think I may gives these a test this fall on a couple of spoon heads and see how they perform. I have always been interested in the single bevel concept and this looks like a possible candidate for an easton arrow this fall.
 

Milo

Tatonka guide.
8,184
157
archertl...we will put it to the test and see where she lands:smiley_bril:
 
i dont see these going though a shoulder blade like a ST.

I dont see a ST going through a shoulder blade like a Silver flame(i shoot ST)..In the end if we do our part an make the shot (like we should)..An not take shots from bad angle .There are a variety of broad heads that will work .A head ability to go through a shoulder should not be at top of the list when choosing a broadhead...Just my opinion..An nice to see Helix updated there website ..The blade thickness looks pretty good on them..
 

Jackalope

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I dont see a ST going through a shoulder blade like a Silver flame(i shoot ST)..In the end if we do our part an make the shot (like we should)..An not take shots from bad angle .There are a variety of broad heads that will work .A head ability to go through a shoulder should not be at top of the list when choosing a broadhead...Just my opinion..An nice to see Helix updated there website ..The blade thickness looks pretty good on them..

I sent one through a shoulder paddle, then through the bone below the paddle on the other side shattering it right below the knuckle joint then into the dirt... I don't judge a head by how it performs when shot through ribs on an optimal shot. But how it performs when i need it to actually perform. If you equipment can handle the shot, it's no longer a bad angle or a shot you shouldn't take...
 

Milo

Tatonka guide.
8,184
157
these heads are designed to split bone not smash bone like a slick trick. I don't like bone shards in my meat anyway:pickle:
 
I sent one through a shoulder paddle, then through the bone below the paddle on the other side shattering it right below the knuckle joint then into the dirt... I don't judge a head by how it performs when shot through ribs on an optimal shot. But how it performs when i need it to actually perform. If you equipment can handle the shot, it's no longer a bad angle or a shot you shouldn't take...

To each there own...But I will say my previous post was simply meant to say Silver flames are tougher(cost 3 times as much too).That was in reply to a comment that the Helix wont hold up to shoulder bone as well as a ST..As far as blade toughness..The helix is thicker..The 125 grain helix is twice as thick as a Normal ST blade..I found that interesting..Dont mean much on shoulders cause the ferrule is whats doing the work when ya take shots like joe is talking about
 

Jackalope

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these heads are designed to split bone not smash bone like a slick trick. I don't like bone shards in my meat anyway:pickle:

Lol. Me too thats why I typically cut around the wound channel. ;)
 

Milo

Tatonka guide.
8,184
157
To each there own...But I will say my previous post was simply meant to say Silver flames are tougher(cost 3 times as much too).That was in reply to a comment that the Helix wont hold up to shoulder bone as well as a ST..As far as blade toughness..The helix is thicker..The 125 grain helix is twice as thick as a Normal ST blade..I found that interesting..Don't mean much on shoulders cause the ferrule is whats doing the work when ya take shots like joe is talking about
actually the greatest moment force is on the blade at impact. the ferrule does not do any work because it is 2 piece system. its the threads and pin that hold it together. the ferrule can provide a degree of rigidity to the blade but by inhibiting its ability to bend and absorb the force but that force is transferred to the connection point.
 

Milo

Tatonka guide.
8,184
157
i don't and won't shoot slick trick so i don't know how the head is assembled.
 

Milo

Tatonka guide.
8,184
157
high blade angles..its a puncher not a cutter or splitter .. energy robber...
 

Milo

Tatonka guide.
8,184
157
no problem OMO but the fact is the fact..it does not take a huge amount of energy to obtain a broadside pass through but i'm not worried about that shot when i shoot deer. hell i killed one on a pass through with my 43 pound longbow at prolly 140 FPS broadside. not much energy there but i have bounced one off a shoulder paddle...that was wierd i must say..toasted the broadhead
 
This isnt to ruffle any feathers with any1 (milo an joe)..But I have passed on many deer(both sex) for 3 seasons..Because I dont want to take what i feel is a iffy or bad shot angle??Am i wrong for this??Am i being to Ethical??I want a honest answer maybe I been wrong all this time..I know I can place the shot well(well in those seasons I could)..But being slightly new to this(under 5 years) should I be taking more of these type of shots I been avoiding?
 
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Jackalope

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high blade angles..its a puncher not a cutter or splitter .. energy robber...


But the high blade angles is what makes the holes actually larger than the head. I have compared my entry holes on deer and they look to average about 1/4 inch larger than the head itself. People look at the head and claim it's tiny, then they see the wound and are like no way that head cut that hole...

Been...
It is still a cutter, but it's also a puncher... I think it's about a 50/50 head. Every broadhead uses a sliding and punching method to cut... Same as having a sharp knife cutting a cucumber. It'll always be easier if you slide the knife a little while pressing down to cut vs just pressing straight down.. On a longer BH like say a Magnus stinger, it has a lesser blade angle and slides more than it presses. Therefore it relies more on light pressure on the blade and easier sliding down the blade to make it's cut. Take the cucumber again, The Magnus is like sliding the knife backwards super fast with very little pressure. The lesser the blade angle the less KE is robbed going through. The higher the angle the more pushing and relying on blade sharpness... Like anything it's a give and take. Personally the ST has never let me down, It hits hard, busts any bone i need it to, and gets to the vitals in one piece.
 

Jackalope

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This isnt to ruffle any feathers with any1 (milo an joe)..But I have passed on many deer(both sex) for 3 season..Because I dont want to take what i feel is a iffy or bad shot angle??Am i wrong for this??Am i being to Ethical??I want a honest answer maybe I been wrong all this time..I know I can place the shot well(well in those seasons I could)..But being slightly new to this(under 5 years) should I be taking more of these type of shots I been avoiding?

It's all up to you... The ethics comes with the equipment's ability.. So it's up to you ability as an archer, and your equipments ability as a killing device...

A quartering to shot through the paddle with a longbow isn't the most ethical thing to try... However a quartering to shot through the paddle with a compound shootiing 70+ ftlbs of KE... Shouldn't be unethical as long as you understand the anatomy of the animal so that where you're aiming is actually in line with the vitals.
 
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