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ATV Trailer, adding a wood floor

Dustinb80

Dustinb80

#FACKCANCER
Supporting Member
18,192
187
S.W. Ohio
I bought a new trailer for the ATV. I figure it will be cheaper than back windows on trucks in the long run. Im going to be putting a wood floor on it this weekend. The Pro Services guy at Lowes suggested 1X6X8 Premium Deck floor which he said is pine and very sturdy. The premium, according to him, holds a true 1" thickness. He is also suggesting #10 Self Tapping screws. Ill attach the links below. I need your guys thoughts. Haven't decided if I'm flipping the axles or if I'm buying a larger drop tongue yet. Not entirely sold on the idea of self tappers, with no washers or nuts, etc.


http://www.lowes.com/pd_489023-6466...023&UserSearch=489023&productId=999922022#img

http://www.lowes.com/pd_580245-2191-100137.0___?productId=50303223&pl=1&Ntt=#10+self+tapping+screws

http://www.lowes.com/pd_100369-15476-5X8G_1z0x2ms__?productId=3005264&pl=1
 
"J"

"J"

Git Off My Lawn
Supporting Member
57,023
274
North Carolina
First off, if you can find a sawmill go price the wood in rough cut.... You might be surprised in the price difference....

I'm a fan of, bolts, washers and locknuts....
 
Buckmaster

Buckmaster

Senior Member
14,377
191
Portage
I'd roll POR15 on the grid work prior to covering with wood. Will prevent future rust as the wood will hold some moisture in between grid-deck.
I'd use some kind of treated wood, 1x6, 1x8, etc.
For fasteners I'd probably use stainless carriage bolts, fender washer, and nylon insert locknut (keep in mind I'm a fastener guy).
Final treatment would be 2 coats of Flood CWF (Clear Wood Finish).

While you're at it....make up some removable side skirts so you can haul mulch, etc.
 
Dustinb80

Dustinb80

#FACKCANCER
Supporting Member
18,192
187
S.W. Ohio
Buckmaster said:
I'd roll POR15 on the grid work prior to covering with wood. Will prevent future rust as the wood will hold some moisture in between grid-deck.
I'd use some kind of treated wood, 1x6, 1x8, etc.
For fasteners I'd probably use stainless carriage bolts, fender washer, and nylon insert locknut (keep in mind I'm a fastener guy).
Final treatment would be 2 coats of Flood CWF (Clear Wood Finish).

While you're at it....make up some removable side skirts so you can haul mulch, etc.
Click to expand...

I like the way you think. This is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks.
 
giles

giles

Cull buck specialist
Supporting Member
44,780
228
The real Amish country
Buckmaster said:
I'd roll POR15 on the grid work prior to covering with wood. Will prevent future rust as the wood will hold some moisture in between grid-deck.
I'd use some kind of treated wood, 1x6, 1x8, etc.
For fasteners I'd probably use stainless carriage bolts, fender washer, and nylon insert locknut (keep in mind I'm a fastener guy).
Final treatment would be 2 coats of Flood CWF (Clear Wood Finish).

While you're at it....make up some removable side skirts so you can haul mulch, etc.
Click to expand...

My hero, you saved me from typing all that from my phone!
 
Blan37

Blan37

Member
1,800
64
SW Ohio
I just bought a similar trailer on sale at Rural King.

For mine I bought two sheets of plywood and had them cut to 2.5' sections and just laid them down, then on the perimeter I put some pine boards so I can haul dirt or mulch. I didn't want anything too heavy (I'm pulling this with a car).

To attach the boards to the side I just made some brackets out of some metal strap. I paid $50 for the plywood and I have some left over that I'm going to use for shelves.

I bought a gallon of deck stain that they had from a customer return for $9 and painted all the boards with that.

The thing that kinda sucks about my setup is that for some reason they ran the wiring tube on the inside of the trailer. I had to cut a notch out of my side boards so they fit flush with the decking.

IMG_0869.jpg

bracket.jpg
 
Joel

Joel

Senior Member
3,049
113
Centerburg, Ohio
I had metal mesh and covered it with wood. I used 3/4" pressure treated plywood, carriage bolts, nuts and lock washers. It's been on the trailer and always stored outside for two years and still holding up fine. I did not treat the wood.

IMO 1" thick boards are a bad idea. I'd do 5/4 deck boards minimum and 2x8's would be even better. Would have been too thick for me.
 
hickslawns

hickslawns

Dignitary Member
Supporting Member
39,770
248
Ohio
If you can fit rough cut oak from a sawmill on the floor it will last longer than anything. They are very heavy though. You will be losing some of the carrying capacity of the trailer just with the weight of the lumber. Treated deck boards, stainless bolts, washers top and bottom side, and stainless nylock nuts is what I would do on a small trailer.
 
hickslawns

hickslawns

Dignitary Member
Supporting Member
39,770
248
Ohio
Blan37 said:
I just bought a similar trailer on sale at Rural King.

For mine I bought two sheets of plywood and had them cut to 2.5' sections and just laid them down, then on the perimeter I put some pine boards so I can haul dirt or mulch. I didn't want anything too heavy (I'm pulling this with a car).

To attach the boards to the side I just made some brackets out of some metal strap. I paid $50 for the plywood and I have some left over that I'm going to use for shelves.

I bought a gallon of deck stain that they had from a customer return for $9 and painted all the boards with that.

The thing that kinda sucks about my setup is that for some reason they ran the wiring tube on the inside of the trailer. I had to cut a notch out of my side boards so they fit flush with the decking.

View attachment 43561

View attachment 43562
Click to expand...

Watch closely as you load it Blan. In our retail location I have had people tell me "Keep loading. I can fit another yard of mulch." Then we have to unload because they realized their fenders were sitting on the tires. The axle ratings aren't real heavy on many of the smaller trailers.
 
Blan37

Blan37

Member
1,800
64
SW Ohio
hickslawns said:
Watch closely as you load it Blan. In our retail location I have had people tell me "Keep loading. I can fit another yard of mulch." Then we have to unload because they realized their fenders were sitting on the tires. The axle ratings aren't real heavy on many of the smaller trailers.
Click to expand...

Thanks. It's a 2000# axle but my car can only tow 1000. I'm pretty much screwed long before I ever max out the trailer lol
 
Dustinb80

Dustinb80

#FACKCANCER
Supporting Member
18,192
187
S.W. Ohio
Joel said:
I had metal mesh and covered it with wood. I used 3/4" pressure treated plywood, carriage bolts, nuts and lock washers. It's been on the trailer and always stored outside for two years and still holding up fine. I did not treat the wood.

IMO 1" thick boards are a bad idea. I'd do 5/4 deck boards minimum and 2x8's would be even better. Would have been too thick for me.
Click to expand...

5/4 deck boards are 1 1/8". This is what was suggested. Helps cut down in the weight.
 
Dustinb80

Dustinb80

#FACKCANCER
Supporting Member
18,192
187
S.W. Ohio
The deck boards will be premium treated boards. This will be garage kept when not in use, not sure how much the sealer is needed. Thoughts?
 
5Cent

5Cent

Dignitary Member
Supporting Member
12,332
212
North Central Ohio
Blan37 said:
Thanks. It's a 2000# axle but my car can only tow 1000. I'm pretty much screwed long before I ever max out the trailer lol
Click to expand...

Maybe a 2K axle, but what is the GVWR? Take GVWR-actual trailer weight = cargo capacity left.

Are you saying your car only has a 1K tow limit? If so, I would look at the hitch and make sure you're not pushing tongue weight. Typical tongue weight is 10-15%, or in your case 100lbs - 150lbs. Not sure what type/how your hitch is installed but it might be worth a look.
 
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