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Pruning Fruit Trees

Spencie

Senior Member
5,051
145
Constitution Ohio
I have had my fruit trees (apple and pear) planted for 2-3 years now. I have done no pruning yet, trying to get them tall enough to be safe from feeding deer. I have chicken wire laying on the ground around them to keep bucks from rubbing on them...they will not step on it unless there is 6+ inches of snow on the fence. But they can still lean across and suck off any leaves they can reach.

Some of the bigger trees are now pushing 10 feet tall. Should I start pruning them and begin shaping them for optimum fruiting or let them get taller? I am going to do some research on the subject but thought I would ask here first to see if someone has some knowledge they could share with the group.
 
My dad and uncles always said to prune late winter and take everything out that goes straight up. Now that can make a big impact on trees so for me I have just taken out a good majority of the vertical but anything that was rubbing on another I would decide which to keep and which to cut off. We have several trees in Ohio that I really need to get after for that and because of all the other crap that's growing up into them and through them. Those to my knowledge have never been pruned.

My trees in the back yard I kept pruning the lower branches off so that we could ride under with the mower. So they are a lot taller than most would like to see before branches go out.
 

NAC1989

Junior Member
447
75
Clark county
I planted 10 bare root apple trees this spring and its recommended to prune them every year to maintain a good shape for strength of the framework. After they reach fruiting age it's more maintenance pruning for maximum fruit production and disease control such as cross branches that rub and obvious diseased sections of branches. Also pruning waterspouts and the suckers coming from the rootstock. With the chicken wire keeping the bucks from rubbing I wouldn't worry about what they can reach to eat it will only train the trees to grow where they won't get eaten. As far pruning pears I don't know anything about them, I only have apples and 2 peach trees.
 
By getting rid of the suckers you would then be letting the main trunks start to get stronger I would think. Better to have strong base limbs than a bunch of worthless shoots going up. If the lower branches are high enough I'd start working it now to become a better producer.
 

Mike

Dignitary Member
Supporting Member
15,848
223
Up Nort
My parents have an apple farm. Most of the trees are gone now, but we'd prune late fall. The most important thing you can do is pop the sucker off by sharply pulling in the opposite direction it's growing. If you cut sucker growth, you'll have three coming out of that cut next year. Pop'em off!
 

Buckmaster

Senior Member
14,377
191
Portage
year 3-4 for my apple trees. I've pruned them twice taking anything that grows erect or double branched. Right now they are about 5 feet tall with the horizontal branches about a 4x4 square. Short and stout allowing the trunk to gain some diameter. Its about time for me to lightly trim again and fertilize (the roots grow during the winter). Maybe tomorrow.

In other notes, just dumped two bottles of root killer down my septic lines tonight, copper sulfate.
 
My parents have an apple farm. Most of the trees are gone now, but we'd prune late fall. The most important thing you can do is pop the sucker off by sharply pulling in the opposite direction it's growing. If you cut sucker growth, you'll have three coming out of that cut next year. Pop'em off!

Interesting! Thinking about it I'd say you are right.
 

antiqucycle

Junior Member
506
36
East Ohio
Take ride past a serious commercial orchard and note how low mature trees are to make them easier to pick the fruit.

Definitely chop the straight verticle branches now. Then make sure next spring to buy the expensive sprays you must use.
 

Buckmaster

Senior Member
14,377
191
Portage
Actually, I've read you can prune anytime so I've done it in all seasons without any ill effects. You can take out about 1/3 of the tree per year if needed.

During the winter the roots are growing (because the leaves aren't) so now is also a good time to fertilize the root base.