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So what do you recommend for arrows?

hickslawns

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Jamie's questions spurred some interest in myself to dust off my trad bow. One thing preventing me from shooting it is arrows. I don't have any wooden arrows and not sure what my options are. I know I have asked this before but never got motivated enough to go get some. I have no clue where that thread got to.

Bow make is a Shakespeare. Model says "X18" but it also says "The Sierra" above Model X18. It has 52" K43876T and 50# written on it as well. Can I shoot my carbon arrows? I have 6-8 Gold Tip 5575s sitting around and about the same number of Radial X-Weave arrows sitting. Both were bought for 70lb compound but I don't know if they would work or not.

Next question is string related. I haven't the foggiest clue about these strings. How would I know if they were good or not? I just want to start shooting it for now. I really don't intend on hunting with it unless some miracle happened and I feel right at home and confident out of the gates. Reality tells me this probably won't happen, but you never know I guess.

Thanks,Phil
 

Jamie

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I'd say that the carbons you have are going to be way too stiff. not even close. I don't shoot carbons, so I cannot tell you what the right carbon arrow would be. assuming you draw the bow 28", you would likely need wood arrows spined in the 50-55# or 55-60# spine class. a little trial and error is in order. if string looks healthy, isn't frayed or has any strands cut, serving in good shape, then the string is probably just fine. that short of a bow will probably work best if braced somewhere around 7.5 to 8". could need to be higher or lower, and finding optimal brace height is important to achieving the best arrow flight possible, as is the nock placement on the string, which will also require some trial and error. tuning a recurve bow is simple, but not necessarily easy. much depends on you, the shooter, and how you grip bow, how far you draw, your anchor and release.

maybe somebody that is carbon arrow smart will step up here. of course, there are probably charts or something that will tell you what you need based on the draw weight at YOUR draw length for this particular bow.

few people are true naturals at shooting a bow, or anything else, really. solid bow arm, solid, repeatable anchor, clean release, keep head still(no peeking), follow through. consistently doing the same thing from shot to shot is what we all work toward shooting traditional bows. is important to be patient with yourself and your progress. master the form, and consistent accuracy will naturally follow. most importantly, have fun. if you invest yourself in regular meaningful practice, you'll be surprised how quickly you can hit what you want at 20 yards. I would suggest shooting not further than 10 yards for a while, until you are comfortable with your mechanics and grouping arrows pretty well. don't forget to have fun.
 

hickslawns

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I'd say that the carbons you have are going to be way too stiff. not even close. I don't shoot carbons, so I cannot tell you what the right carbon arrow would be. assuming you draw the bow 28", you would likely need wood arrows spined in the 50-55# or 55-60# spine class. a little trial and error is in order. if string looks healthy, isn't frayed or has any strands cut, serving in good shape, then the string is probably just fine. that short of a bow will probably work best if braced somewhere around 7.5 to 8". could need to be higher or lower, and finding optimal brace height is important to achieving the best arrow flight possible, as is the nock placement on the string, which will also require some trial and error. tuning a recurve bow is simple, but not necessarily easy. much depends on you, the shooter, and how you grip bow, how far you draw, your anchor and release.

maybe somebody that is carbon arrow smart will step up here. of course, there are probably charts or something that will tell you what you need based on the draw weight at YOUR draw length for this particular bow.

few people are true naturals at shooting a bow, or anything else, really. solid bow arm, solid, repeatable anchor, clean release, keep head still(no peeking), follow through. consistently doing the same thing from shot to shot is what we all work toward shooting traditional bows. is important to be patient with yourself and your progress. master the form, and consistent accuracy will naturally follow. most importantly, have fun. if you invest yourself in regular meaningful practice, you'll be surprised how quickly you can hit what you want at 20 yards. I would suggest shooting not further than 10 yards for a while, until you are comfortable with your mechanics and grouping arrows pretty well. don't forget to have fun.

I was thinking the same in regards to the bold. Close shots, and hang it up for the day when frustrated. Excellent pointers which I appreciate. I figured the arrows would be too stiff but it is outside my realm of knowledge. Maybe the arrows which came with the Diamond Razors Edge I picked up for the wife and kids will work for the time being. Probably too short though. I am a 29" DL generally. Thinking Milo setup the last compound at 29.5 though. Seems they all measure a bit different.
 

Jamie

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very likely your draw length will shorten up some with the recurve, perhaps an inch or more. everyone is different in that regard.
 

hickslawns

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Those carbons will fly decent with about 250 grains up front. The ideal carbon would be a 3555.

I think I am leaning towards carbon arrows so this info is appreciated. You and Jamie have put up some great stuff to get me pointed the right direction. I have used enough excuses already. The bow has collected enough dust. I will find some carbon because I can fletch them and I wouldn't have to think as much. One less consistency variable to use as an excuse while I get my feet wet.

What weight field tips would you recommend? Do I need to do some arrow length measuring and figuring of math first? Or is it something I will realize when I start to shoot? Probably sounds dumb, but if my ignorance combined with your experience and knowledge gets me started and informs some others who might be interested then I will continue to show my ignorance.
 

heydeerman

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You can shoot em full length. It will keep the weight up...good for hunting. Don't be afraid to give wood a try. They are not as hard as you think and a good wood arrow will fly as good as a carbon. Here is a good place to start for wood. http://surewoodshafts.com/packs.html Get a 3 pack starting at 50-55. You will get 55-60 and 60-65. 4 arrows of each. All of em will fly decent but one will fly best. The one that flies best is what you set up and the others become skwirl arras.

For field tips get some 250 grain tips from Kustom King Archery. To get the same weight in a broadhead get some 125 grain steel broadhead adapters and 125 grain broadheads. Mount em with hot melt glue. You don't need an expensive broadhead either. ACE broadheads are tough as nails and still affordable. Kustom King has about everything you need. http://www.kustomkingarchery.com/
 

hickslawns

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When you say "Fly best" will this be obvious? I mean, are we talking better groups or noise or wobbly in the air? I really don't know. If we are talking groups then I don't suppose it will matter right away. None of them are going to group well the first so many arrows. lol

With my 50# bow, you are certain I should start at 50-55 then? Not the 45-50#? Since Jamie mentioned DL might vary, I was just thinking what if I am drawing shorter thus only shooting 42-45-47lbs or whatever. Not that I am second guessing you because I know squat about this. Just wasn't sure how all that works. Plus, I am pretty good at overthinking things when I shouldn't be.
 

heydeerman

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It wouldn't hurt to go a little lower. At this point it's all an experiment. What you learn from this will effect everything you do with arrows from this point.

You are not necessarily looking for groups but "whip" in the arrow. Whip is sideway movement. Most times if you shoot an arrow that is not spined right you will hear a tick or click as it leaves the shelf and you will see it whip. I paper tune my arrows just like someone would do with a compound. It saves me time and sometimes the whip is hard to see. Here is a good guide.

http://elitearrows.com/proper-arrow/
 

hickslawns

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Gotcha. Thanks for the insight. I would have never known what to look for otherwise. I appreciate it.
 

GoetsTalon

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I think mine are XX75 2016's I will check. I shoot them out of a 50# long bow and with the big zwickey on them they fly great. They have the traditional style crest cut feathers with the wood grain finish that make them look like wood (kind of). I would love to get some home made cedar arrows but they are way pricey!!!
 

Jamie

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you can make a dozen good wood arrows yourself for $75 or so, assuming you have a fletching jig. if not, I'll fletch them for you for nothing. I'd advise that cedar arrow quality is totally in the toilet. douglas fir is best quality wood arrow going today, imo. been shooting them exclusively for three or four years now. primo doug fir shafts are $36 a dozen.
 

COB-TY

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Hack I would go with woodies to start with. Carbons get to expensive when lost and like most folks starting out with stick and string you may have a tendency to lose more than you break. Making wood arrows is a piece of cake. If I can do it any one can do It but, there is always a but you know. Steve Wright who is a member of OSTA can sell you some very good arrows and not all the expensive. BTW join OSTA and have more fun with your clothes on than you ever thought possible!
 

hickslawns

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Thanks Jamie. Good info. I can fletch them. Just started this year so I could use the practice. One thing at a time I guess. Some day i may be building my own. For now, I am just happy to do the fletchings and embarrassed I didn't learn earlier as it is really simple.
 

Jamie

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my post was pointed at GoetsTalon, but applies equally, to you, Hicks. lots of stuff in traditional archery is simple to do yourself. making flemmish strings is another thing that is very easy to learn.

Ted, do you mean Steve Wagner?
 

GoetsTalon

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Thankyou for the info Jamie!!! I have a fletching jig so i m going to try to make some this winter!!!! While the wife and daughter are working on puzzels i can build some arrows!!! I always liked watching Tred Barta build his arrows and then go hunt with them. I think i would build half flu flu's and half hunting when i try it!!!
 
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Jamie

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I get Douglas Fir shafts from Surewood Shafts. have always been a pleasure to deal with, shipped orders in timely fashion. best quality woodies available today, imo. I've bought about 6 dozen of their premium shafts, and there has yet to be a stump shooter in the bunch. they run a tad heavier than Port Orford cedar, but are available in a wide range of grain weights in any given spine class.

www.surewoodshafts.com
 

COB-TY

Retired to the happy hunting grounds above.
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my post was pointed at GoetsTalon, but applies equally, to you, Hicks. lots of stuff in traditional archery is simple to do yourself. making flemmish strings is another thing that is very easy to learn.

Ted, do you mean Steve Wagner?

YES! I worked with a Steve Wright. Disflextic (SP)!!!!!!!!!!!!