Welcome to TheOhioOutdoors
Wanting to join the rest of our members? Login or sign up today!
Login / Join

Broad head suggestions

Strizzi

Junior Member
308
65
Hey everyone,

I just got back into bow hunting after about 7 years of being away. I was hoping for some good broad head suggestions for white tail.

Bow is a Fred bear with 28" draw and 60lb weight. Shooting 100gn field tips now. If any of that matters.

I previously shot thunderheads but have no real world experience since I didn't even see one. Haha. What do you guys use or recommend?

Thanks in advance!
 

Tiny

Junior Member
207
0
I am assuming compound. Yes?.
If not, thats fine but I would like to know what the bow design is before moving along here.

First thing I would want to know is how much K.E. you are producing and if you don't know that then the model/year of the bow so that I could check the stats on that bow first.
Next thing I would want to know is if you are a good bow tuner or not.
Next thing I would like to know is what type of terrain are you hunting?. swamp, fields, hardwoods.etc..
Next thing I would like to know is how good of a tracker are you?. Really good or not so good. (no middle ground)
Next thing I would like to know is what is your anticipated shot distance?. Out west (50-80 yards) downeast (10-20 yards), etc..
Next thing I would like to know is what part of the decision is your wallet making?. price first or last... based on quality.


Thats a start. Give me this information and I will give you my best ideas for your broadhead :)
 

Strizzi

Junior Member
308
65
I am assuming compound. Yes?.
If not, thats fine but I would like to know what the bow design is before moving along here.

First thing I would want to know is how much K.E. you are producing and if you don't know that then the model/year of the bow so that I could check the stats on that bow first.
Next thing I would want to know is if you are a good bow tuner or not.
Next thing I would like to know is what type of terrain are you hunting?. swamp, fields, hardwoods.etc..
Next thing I would like to know is how good of a tracker are you?. Really good or not so good. (no middle ground)
Next thing I would like to know is what is your anticipated shot distance?. Out west (50-80 yards) downeast (10-20 yards), etc..
Next thing I would like to know is what part of the decision is your wallet making?. price first or last... based on quality.


Thats a start. Give me this information and I will give you my best ideas for your broadhead :)

The bow is compound sorry. I have no idea the kinetic energy, it's a brand new Fred Baer encounter so I'm guessing 12 or 13. I have never tuned a bow. Hunting hard woods down east, or wood lines/fields up north. I can track but I'm no expert, but prefer less tracking. And price isn't a huge issue.
 

Tiny

Junior Member
207
0
http://www.beararcheryproducts.com/bows/compound/encounter

Well I didnt ask your arrow weight so I am going to guess that you are shooting around a 400 grain arrow and go from there :)
Assuming you have the normal accessories on the string, a 400 grain arrow and a bow that is spec'd at 310 AMMO, I am going to project 60# K.E. at most.

Speaking to the tuning aspect which you have said that you do not do...
While you need to shoot a tuned bow, there are levels of acceptable tune. I cannot assume that your pro-shop will do a perfect job so that puts me on the expandable side of things or a very low drag fixed head.
Unless your bow shop is doing a walk back tune (with or without paper) I am going to assume that your bow has a less than perfect tune.
Just the way it is..... No disrespect to your shop.

Next is the type of hunting you are doing

Sounds like you are likely to encounter about anything for distances so again, this stays with the same broadhead types. Longer distance suggests lower resistance for better performance in flight.

Next is the blood trailing and tracking.

Not an expect and no want to be. I'm right there with you! :D That screams multiple blade.

Taking all things into account I would recommend the following fixed heads: Wasp Boss Bullet or Innerlock Falcon.
OR
The following expandable: Rocket Steelhead

My preference would be the Rocket steelhead due to the fact that it is the least likely to give you flight issues and has a larger cut area with lower drag than the two fixed heads listed above.

All three of the heads above will work exceptionally well in flight out of a moderately tuned bow and will provide you exceptional penetration, considering the estimated K.E. of your bow.
 

Strizzi

Junior Member
308
65
Thank you so much, ill look into all three of those.

Haha Now for the stupid question... Where can I find out how to properly tune my bow?
 

Strizzi

Junior Member
308
65
Ok I did a little you tube work and now realize what you mean by tuning. Pretty much "sighting" it in for paper tuning (getting it to hit where you aim) and broad head tuning is pretty much making sure your field tips and broad heads hit the same point?

Yes the "pro shop" I went to did no tuning/sighting in if that's what tuning is. First time I shot at 15 yards my arrows were in the ground. I did a little work myself and atleast with the field tips I have I'm pretty sighted in (I do have alittle more work to get it perfect but I'm holding fist size groups now)

Is this what basic tuning is?
 

MK111

"Happy Hunting Grounds in the Sky"
Supporting Member
6,551
66
SW Ohio
I'm watching this post. As I just got back into serious bow hunting last year.
 

bowhunter1023

Owner/Operator
Staff member
48,879
274
Appalachia
Where are you currently located?

Sighting in a bow and tuning a bow are two separate things. Until your bow is properly tuned, there is no sense in trying to sight it in. If you are in the Columbus area, we could point you the right direction to actually have it tuned correctly. By and large, 99% of the pro shops out there are laughable at best.

Paper tuning is not getting it to hit where you aim. When you paper tune a bow, you are trying to determine correct nock placement, fetching contact, and rest alignment among other things. This is a 32 page "bible" of sorts from Easton about tuning and maintenance. I highly suggest you print it out, read it, and keep a copy in your bow case. Easton Archery Tuning Guide. I would also suggest watching this video. It is one of the best videos on YouTube for paper tuning.

[video=youtube;RFIc7aZOy9c]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RFIc7aZOy9c[/video]

The best piece of advice I can give your for sighting it in once you are properly tuned is to chase your arrow with your pins. No one explain this to me when I first started and I had a hard time getting sighted in as a result. If you miss low and left, then drop your pin/sight housing and move it left. It "pulls" the arrow back to the proper location.

As for your original question, Tiny is getting down to the nitty gritty which is good. However for the sake of giving an opinion, I would suggest a proven mechanical if tuning is going to be an issue or if you can get it tuned, shooting a proven fixed blade. I am a Slick Trick fan, but have also killed deer with 7-8 other broadheads. They'll all kill deer if you can put the arrow where it needs to be.

Good luck!!!
 

Strizzi

Junior Member
308
65
I'm from medina however my fiancée is in Dublin so I got out to Columbus frequently.

Thank you for clearing up what tuning is, that is exactly what I was looking for.

Again thanks to everyone!
 

jagermeister

Dignitary Member
Supporting Member
18,060
223
Ohio
+1 for going to see Milo... That foolio knows bows.

As far as broadheads go, I'm partial to fixed-blade heads. I shoot Magnus Stingers and have very good success with them. Best of all, Magnus offers a lifetime warranty on their broadheads. Shoot through a deer and hit a rock?... Send it to Magnus and they'll send you back a free replacement.
 

Dannmann801

Dignitary Member
Supporting Member
10,640
191
Springboro
Slick Trick broadheads fly like field points and are tough and sharp.
But as mentioned before, any broadhead put in the right place will do the job.
I've just had good success with the Slick Trick.

One thing I'd suggest - if you have the means, get a Block target or another brand that you can practice on with your broadheads instead of switching back and forth. Not an absolute necessity, but surely a confidence builder to practice with the same setup you're going to hunt with.

107 days till they fly.
 

Tiny

Junior Member
207
0
One thing I'd suggest - if you have the means, get a Block target or another brand that you can practice on with your broadheads instead of switching back and forth. Not an absolute necessity, but surely a confidence builder to practice with the same setup you're going to hunt with.

Good suggestion. I would suggest the Rhinehart 18 in 1 target since it carries a 1 year warranty against shootouts. I have shot broadheads year round into a rhinehart and never been able to claim that second target :)
(need to shoot more :D )